Sea to Shining Sea West to East
The route from Benton City, WA to Yellowstone, National Park. Along the way we took two-lane Highways through western Washington and eastern Idaho, single lane roads through small towns with an agricultural base. Interesting how the harvest of alfalfa the farmers would harvest in sections creating designs in their fields.
The areas with water available would have the most farming. When entering Idaho the route changes more to touristy, following the snake river alongside the Nez Pierce reservation was interesting, small shops in little towns all along the way and the views of tree covered hills following the river was nice. Not making many miles because of the smaller roads we laid over. Fortunately that we did for our neighbor in the campground had come from the direction we were headed and said rain mixed with snow for her entire day. Next day as we head out the clouds had diminished some and we had better going. Following the Nez Pierce evacuation route through the mountains into Montana was beautiful, small streams overflowing with rain inside forest covered mountains were pretty. At last reaching an interstate in Montana we expected to make some mileage but knowing we would not reach Yellowstone that day gave in to Nita to stop off at a fly-fishing shop. Turned out there was a samolnfly hatch in progress so Nita talked Tom into purchasing a new fly rod and some fly’s. Now with a new rod and a hatch happening Tom could not pass up the opportunity to try his luck, so we stayed over that day and all of the next to try fishing.
What a fantastic experience, Tom had not
fished for trout in over 20 years yet was able to land a 15” cutthroat
trout! The range looms loftily over
Montanan’s river’s the peaks still traced with snow, but getting ready to burst
into full summer color like the valley below.
This view is one of several along road beckon travelers to conclude
they’re motoring through “Gods Country”. We all enjoyed our stay and will never
forget the how the sun reflects brilliantly from a high mountain stream and
nearby fireweed is illuminated during the last moments of a Montana Sunset.
Continuing toward Yellowstone we viewed the famous trout streams Madison, Gallatin, and Jefferson in Montana. They all were overflowing with rainwater and snowmelt but it was interesting to actually be there where so much has been written about in fly-fishing circles. Camping in a Passport America campground outside the park we made our base of operations. A nice park 12 miles outside Yellowstone with very friendly people, two in particular we made friends with one a retired truck driver who enjoys fishing, another with a Rexhall Airbus who we exchanged information with and made plans to meet at the next location of Mount Rushmore.
Yellowstone, NP
Sitting astride the Continental Divide, high
up in the northern Rockies at the northwest corner of Wyoming, Yellowstone
National Park is one of the true wonders of the natural world. A veritable greatest hits of Mother Nature,
the park is packed full of burbling geysers, magnificent canyons, raging
waterfalls, and still-wild wildlife. The
country’s and the worlds oldest national park, established in 1872, Yellowstone
was first explored by frontiersman John Colter, who passed through in 1808:
it’s also one of the largest parts of the Lower 48 states never to be farmed or
fenced.
The first day we over did ourselves. Not only did we travel the southern loop of Yellowstone but drove through the Grand Teton, NP also. Covering 250 miles and numerous stops we exhausted ourselves. Seeing Old Faithful was just as good as when seen on a nature film. And the Lodge at Old Faithful is truly magnificent: constructed throughout with whole logs with unique shapes yet put together in a pleasing manner. Three stories high your eyes are tasked to view all of it. Simply something you have to see for yourselves.
Numerous Buffalo, Elk, geysers, rivers, streams and hot springs throughout the park. Several times buffalo blocked the road as they crossed as a herd. All the traffic would stop and wait for the crossing; we would get out of the cars to take pictures as they took their time crossing. Several times during our stay buffaloes would be walking
down the road so close you thought they would rub the side of your car. The Grand Teton’s were spectacular the entire drive through the park you could see the mountains. We stopped at a lodge for lunch while enjoying the view of the mountains. Getting very tired we passed on seeing more of the Teton’s and finished our route up a 10% grade, glad we did not bring the motor home this was quite a pull even for the truck. Once over the grade it was another 60 miles to camp through farmland and ravines, passing farm trucks along the way.
We saw so very much and covered so many miles we were exhausted. Nita took the next day off to rest and Tom went fishing on the famous Madison River. Fishing that portion of the river inside the park is exciting!
Buffalo wandering by as you standing in the stream is a unique experience. Working the stream hard Tom caught 3 fish the first day one of which was 10” rainbow trout. Returning to camp we had a big meal and turned in early for we expected to tour more of the park the next day.
Having done the southern loop of Yellowstone we headed off to see the northern loop. The first part had road construction and fortunately the road workers were not working at the time we went through. The road was packed dirt but fairly smooth. A hot spring at the creeks edge was interesting for I know the water was cold enough for trout yet the hot water entering the stream had to make it much warmer.
Monmouth Springs looked better on the post card than it did up close. A side trip brought us to a hot spring that we could stand under!
Stopping off along the roadway to eat is
always fun, either fortunately or unfortunately Yogi Bear did not come by to
get the picnic basket. We did see Black Bears though a mother and two cubs far
enough away to feel safe.
The remainder of the northern loop followed
the Yellowstone River Canyon but never close enough to see it. This portion was
disappointing to us, had a lot of hills and curves to drive but not that much
in the way of scenery or animals. The route back went through the same road
construction area and since we had seen it already just added to our
disappointment.
Next day we camped inside the Yellowstone
Park. Nita puttered around the campground and Tom went fishing on the Fire hole
River inside the park. Much more productive fishing but much smaller fish. Tom
seems to have relearned how to catch trout and is having a good time. Yo had
wandered around a little and the camp host was a bit of a stuffed shirt and got
very upset about Yo being outside. So outside on a harness and that is not Yo’s
favorite thing.
Departure from Yellowstone is a mixture of feelings, we truly enjoyed our stay but the need to move on is strong too. Along the way out we did see a grizzly bear, definitely far enough away to be safe. The exit out the east side of the park is narrow and winding, we have had enough of wining roads and are ready to make some miles. It took most of the morning to get out of the park and down to Cody, WY. A little shopping and push on down the road. The choices of Hwy 14 or 16 through the Bighorn Mountains looked about the same on the map. Traveling it though I am not so sure. We took Hwy 14 and it was very steep and windy until you reach the top then a large plateau for a nice ride the downside and then again very steep and winding. Extremely scenic though, beautiful colored canyon walls sharp ridges and some wildlife. Actually this could be a nice area to visit. Continuing on we ended up stopping in a high school parking lot for the night in Sundance, WY. Although occasional cars did come by into the school area it was relatively quiet and we rested quite well.
Next morning we attempted to meet up with
some acquaintances in Sturgis, WY and missed them entirely, such is the life on
the road, you never know that timing to meet others will work out or not. So we
continued down to Custer State Park, SD to stay a few days. We had been told
that there are more animals here than in Yellowstone. Apparently not at the
time we were there. A little searching and we did see Pronghorn Antelope and
some burros that would put their heads into the car to ask for a handout.
Nice campground and enjoyed meeting the
people there had quite an afternoon visiting the camp host and our immediate
neighbors who were from Tampa, FL. Mountain goats were along the road and
buffalo walked through our campsite, Yo was not sure what to do with that big
of an animal that close to us.
A short drive to see Mount Rushmore and off we go. Mt Rushmore is what you would expect of a stone figure, not very entertaining but definitely impressive in the enormous undertaking it required to make it. Most definitely a unique man made attraction.
South Dakota is a very long state with the western half not too populated. Signs along the interstate were plentiful for Walls Drug store in Wall, SD. We did stop there and were entertained by the exhibits and décor of the shops, definitely a tourist trap! Prices very reasonable though and a lot of people were there. Glad we did stop though and it made for a good break in a long flat boring drive.
Another couple of hundred miles along the road is Mitchell, SD home of the Corn Palace USA. This building that local merchant started in 1908 to promote their town in the hopes of increased business and election as the state capitol.
Unfortunately, they never did become the capitol but did increase business. Every year with the exception of the world war years they would put up new designs on the walls of the building in different murals. The building had been rebuilt three times for various reasons and the latest one does not have the domes on it, they are attempting to raise money to install new domes on the current building to match the previous buildings.
A free tour (short but offering insight into
history of the corn palace) we did shop in the flea market inside. Tom found a
Pheasant cape that we put up in the motor home. A lot of color and the cats
seem to like it too.
Also in Mitchell is a Cabellas store. Tom had
mail ordered a lot of fishing equipment from this store in the past, so we went
inside and browsed. The best part of all is they had free camping in the
parking lot with water and dump station available. The weather that evening was
cool enough to camp without the generator running and the other campers were
nice to chat to. This felt very safe to stay at and we enjoyed the stop over.
Next stop is Basswood campground just north
of Kansas City, MO. The campground was hosting the national Bar-B-Que Cook Off!
We could not even sample the food due to health laws so we did wander around to
see all the cooking set ups and watch some of the entertainment provided. Nita
went back to rest and Tom was walking around and heard people clapping, so off
he goes to see what’s going on. A group of Dodge Motor Homes 1950’s versions
were having their National Rally. Naturally there were not too very many of
these coaches. They were having an excellent time; there were four members of
the camp group who were also a band. They sang folk songs and were very good.
Their name is Spontaneous Combustion, from Kansas City, MO. Extremely good
musicians and I shall have to look up their web site to learn more.
Next day tour Hallmark Cards home office. A
very good film describing the efforts Hallmark places into developing the
artists who make the pictures and sayings in the cards, a tour of past cards,
mementoes, movies, person gifts. Also a demonstration of how to make the dies
for the cards.
An attempt to see the Oregon Trail Museum in
Independence, MO was a bust! It was not even there any more. The map and
computer showed it and it was definitely not there.
Off to Branson, MO for some touristy fun.
Finding our campground easily we arrived late
in the day, the owners had made themselves available to receive us (gated
campground) and we got parked and settled in for the night. Next day we found a
schedule of events and picked out what shows had an interest to both of us and
went to a discount place to purchase tickets.
Mell Tills show is good; his family for the
most part is involved with his show. His band is apparently the last band to stay
with their performer for extended time. 23 years most of his band had been with
him! Good show and a good time overall.
Based upon recommendations from people we
chatted with we changed our tickets from Mickey Gilley to Pierce Arrow. What a
mistake, as soon as the band started they were so loud Tom left! The manager
did try to turn the volume down, earplugs and moving to the very back did not
help either. We left and they did give us a one-year gift certificate to come
back and try again.
There are a lot of restaurants in Branson, we
tried a few and could not get the hang of other peoples recommendations. One
place was highly recommended and people departing as we were arriving said it
is very good – the worst meal we have had yet! Another received no recommendation
at all, yet we enjoyed it very much. Go figure!!!
Onward to Memphis, TN, the route through the
Ozarks is a pleasant drive some windy areas but rolling hills and small towns.
In Memphis the Agricenter International has a large campground with a very
small pond and a farmers market. No shade trees but very few people were there
and we did park near a lady who made us feel very welcome.
Tour Memphis is interesting. Attractions such as a Pyramid, Southern Folklore, Beal Street (birthplace of the Blues) many historical homes to tour, Mud Island and of course the Mississippi River. Memphis is a nice town, hot yet not unbearably, many mature shade trees lining the streets of the residential areas. A Mexican restaurant that is a good competition to the one in New Mexico!
Touring the Pink Palace is not what was
expected, very, very little of the mansion and no furnishings as advertised.
Good Museum as an attachment to the Mansion covering civil war events,
miniature circus and origin of Piggly Wiggly stores.
Driving through Memphis we were impressed
with the numbers of mature trees in the neighborhoods, revealing cool shaded
lawns. Clean town with potential, traffic a bit heavy though.
A mansion in its time, a clapboard two story
house with windows! Very well kept and the tour is excellent. Taking home some
documents to investigate if we are any relation or not.
Over the mountain to a campground with an
herbal farm. Turns out also has a trout stream alongside. Tom did catch a few
and Yo, Simba, Nita got some rest.
Homeward bound, we have mixed feelings about
getting back, some part of us wants to continue on down the road and parts want
to stay put awhile. Lets give it a few days before we decide.
Overall Trip Statistics:
Mileage 8,000
Pictures 1,700
Time Span 6 Weeks
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